Spain its wildlife and culture 8th May to ? 2012

Portsmouth to Santander and the Asturian Coastline.

We had good 24hr crossing from Portsmouth to Santander watching pods of common dolphin en route. Sighting wild  Dolphins always lifts me they emit a sense of freedom and zest for life and spirit as they so easily glide through the air and back I to the water. We saw them in the Bay of Biscay which because it's on the continental shelf where it suddenly drops away is a superb place for cetacean sightings. We chatted with a fellow binocular clad passenger Matthew Horsfall ( approx 26yrs) whose father had photographed a breaching Sperm Whale on a previous trip. In fact his father is Chris Gomersall who won the wildlife photographer of the year competition in 1983 with a photo of a jumping spider. Matthew was passionate about south America and enthused us further about our planned trip to chile Peru etc with his stories of the teeming wildlife. He left our ship Pont Aven ( same as we used for our recent trip to St Malo) to cycle to his parents who live in the French Pyrenees coincidentally near our friends Pat Carolyn Phil & Ruth who we are visiting en route home.  From Santander we drove west along the beautiful Atlantic coastline of Asturias in stunning evening weather parking on the shoreline at a peaceful medieval town of Camillos where we decided to enjoy a wonderful meal of sardines at the Gurea Restaurant recommended in the LPlanet. As we approached the coast we had great views of the magnificent snow clad Picos De Europa mtns which form part of the Cantabrian Range. We head I to the mountains searching for bear and wolf tomorrow.

Exploring Brittany 11th to 22nd March , 2012 via Portsmouth – St Malo Brittany Ferries

Photos to follow

(Sharon has kindly printed up my nbs)

Exploring Brittany 11^th to 22^nd March , 2012 via Portsmouth – St Malo Brittany Ferries

11.3.12

Left home at 4-45pm to drive to Portsmouth to catch the 8-15pm Ferry Pont Aven. Unusually we booked a cabin and we were pleased we had as on previous occasions we had slept on our sleep mats and sleeping bags in a space on the floor. We thought that we had made a mistake as there seemed to be only one bed, and were about to complain when Sharon spotted a handle in the ceiling, which turned out to be the second bed. Ensuite facilities. Comfortable night. Also had a good evening meal. Nice clean boat.

12.3.12

Arrived in St Malo with the sun shrouded in mist creating an atmospheric mood.

Drove from the Port into town and found the Tourist Information centre by which time the sun came out. Headed westwards and pulling into Ploubolay enroute. Found an amazing Boulangerie by the church, which sold large loaves of bread and as david put it as big as babies. We were able to purchase as much or as little as you wanted. Never seen this before.

Drove on through wonderful coastline to Cap Frehel parked up and wandered along the coastal path sun was trying to get out but being dampened by the mist so visibility  was not brilliant. Saw razorbill,  shag, lesser black back, kittiwake. Chaffinch, meadow pipit, cettis warbler spotted by Sharon as we woke from a nap in the warm sunshine. Had another walk along the western side Later moved down the west side to the Plage de las fosse and found a spot right by the sea and beach albeit unable to see it due to the sea fog. The fog lifted for a short period and the stars were stunning. As we prepared to settle down for the night we were aware of a nearby lighthouse spanning its light across the sea every few seconds. Beautiful peaceful spot despite being right by the road didn’t hear a car all night .

13/3/12

Woke to a heavy sea mist which scuppered our plans to walk a section of the cape Frehel peninsular. Instead we drove off purchased our bread at a grim deserted holiday type village.

Stopped at super u bought an aujourdhui paper for the weather and after making a short stop to buy some organic provisions at a bio store we began our drive south to find the sunshine.

On route we found a lovey lakeside woodland walk to a barrage and then drove on sourth west stopping overnight at an aire off the dual carriageway.

14.3.12.

Lovely day and our tour guide (david) took us across the la vilaine estuary to St Roche Bernard on its southern bank. We parked for a leg stretch and took a walk around this peaceful town and down to the marina packed with yachts. The facility to canoe along the estuary was possible but we didn’t have time. This estuary cuts throught right up to st malo and would provide a great route to sail.

Spontaneously we decided to take advantage of the gorgeous warm spring sunshine and ate al fresco at a Pizzeria restaurant and partook in their menu de jour 14 euros. this was excellent washed down by a glass of red wine.

Continued on entering the park regional naturel de briere from the north down a small road which bisects this park with reedbeds and wetlands either

site as far as you can see and strangely an aired u pique nique submerged in water with only the seat tops and tables exposed.

The Briere Naturel park is the second largest region of wetlands in France after the camargue. The park covers about 40,000 hectares and the core section of the wetland habitat is 19,000 hectares. It has 20 or so breeding pairs of bittern Spotted Crake, black tern Whiskered terns and estimated pop of about 200 blue throats all of which were not due to arrive for another month at least.

Marsh harriers nearly everywhere you look and all sorts of wetland birdlife. We headed for St Joachim and then turned west towards the info point at il de fedrun. There wasn’t anything open but found a nice car park that was available and got the bikes out and went for a cycle ride absolutely fantastic weather continued through the village surrounded by water/wetlands and on to the Il de Menac and then up to the Canal de roseille and went over a bridge along a road restricted to bikes and walkers. Getting late with a fantastic sunset enhanced by the grazing cattle in the foreground. Marsh Harrier, Heron, grey lag goose, shovellers, and mallards etc .Parked bikes and walked a while and saw good views of musk rat plopping into the water, bats flying around short eared owl and a group  of Crane flying by across the reed bed. Beautiful starlit night and night sounds such as frogs calling. Cycled back in the dark.

Watched some like it hot dvd and retired a little later than intended.

15.3.12

today we drove the short distance to Kerhinet and had a wander around the small hamlet with very small thatched roof cottages kept as a living museum of how life was lead in the old days Watched an old black and white film depicting life in the 1930’s. The men generally spent the day working in the shipbuilding industry traveling to and from work by train. The women worked on the land and prepared the food. When the men returned they set out in their small boats a bit similar to the mercoro and went fishing and shooting alond with their gundogs in the marshes.

We did a cycle route from the hamlet hitting on the western border of the morei de grand briere. Beautiful route, lovely countryside woodland and marshland. Thatched houses everywhere very well tended. Had lunch at a picnic table in the grounds of the old village in the warm sunshine and watched brimstone flying around us, birds singing o this beautiful spring day.

Drove on to La Chausee Neuve open views across the marsh here and quite a large gathering of birdlife beyond. About 4 marsh harriers on the horizon around us reasonable number of lap,wing and stacks of gulls. It was very quiet apart from a lone man creating bundles of reed ready for roof thatching used in the local area. Walked to a view point at dusk and the orientation table stated that we were 480km de Londre.From here we saw shoveller teal and other common birdlife nothing unusual. Muskrat feeding in the open, good views through the telescope.

Stayed overnight in the car park (toilets and water facilities, very clean nearby) beautiful starlit night lulled to sleep by lapwing, goats and a donkey with a cough!

 

16.3.12

Woke to a pleasant sunny morning and went for a walk around the lanes and tracks of Le Chausse Neuve. Old boy picking his leaks and then later on our return to the van saw him ploughing the land with an ancient tractor. Also on route took a photo of a Thatcher using the local reed and again the reed collector was returning in his boat full of reeds to start the process of sorting and tying.

Having fully serviced the van we set off westward to Le Crosic***** via the salt pans and enjoyed good views of a weasel hunting. At the  peninsular we parked up at the south side and walked around the peninsular. There was a special place for campers there at 5 euros per night payable between 9pm – 9am approx via credit card.

The coastal path around the peninsular was not our perfect spot not very wild built up but the bird life was good. Saw turnstone sandwich turn, serin, brent geese, black redstart, blackcap, red breasted merganser.

Saw to divers snorkeling with spear guns. One had speared a fresh plaice. They were towing a mini dinghy behind them and using it as a collection vessel.

Headed towards Herbignac in the North to find somewhere to camp for the night.

17.3.12

Last night we drove back into the Parc reginale naturel de briere and parked on the waters edge at the Northern end of the Canal du Nord which bisects the marais de la grand briere at fosse blanc A lovely peaceful spot all to ourselves and a view over the canal stretching into the distance headed by two or three mercoro type boats called barques reminding us of our Okavango trip. These boats are used for trips through the canal.

Superb position heard chettis warblers and put the blind down and saw marsh harrier hunting over the reeds. The only thing missing is the sunshine.

Spent the day despite the rain in the camper enjoying the location.

Later set out called at Super U to stock up on provisions as Sunday everything closes. Also having checked the weather we knew we needed to head North

18.3.12

The tour guide found us a wonderful spot to camp on the edge of a wide sweeping bay in the gulf de Morbihan. Our exact location was Le passage a finger of land extending just beyond St Armel. Last night we took advantage of a dry night and went for a walk around what appeared in the dark to be a quaint village with its own organic bakery and café/tabac. Just before arriving back at the van, a shooting star which took a while to pass shot above us.

What a stunning morning. We are also on within a zone de tranquility ou l’avifaune du golfed du Morhihan .

Jacque aged 70yrs and who looked well for his age put it down to good food, oyster in particular, and plenty of exercise. He was from Surzur and engaged David in about 1hrs worth of conversation as David tried to prepare the bikes for our ride. It transpired that Jacque had lived in Hemel Hempsted 40years ago whilst working for an international company. He is the proud owner of a tan coloured mg midget. This delayed us slightly and he invited us on our next trip to come and stay at his home.

The tour guide cocked up today and took us on a cycle ride to the Tour de parc a desolate holiday village type area with no soul. We had a grotty coffee with grotty chips in a dirty café on the edge of this area and to complete set out in hail stone and rain but eventually found green lanes and finished our ride back to st Armel in sunshine and completed the day 50kms later with a wonderful sunset recorded by David in film. 

19.3.12

Woke up to another stunning day blue cloudless skies and sunshine. Went for a walkthrough the village to the salt pans with good views of avocet and egrit. Walked across the temporary road between the tides to ile de Tascon and took the footpath along the edge of the island to its far side before taking a track to the village and beyond. Beautiful houses and so well tended so unusual for French houses but certainly not in this area. We had hoped that the bio pain Boulanger/Café would be open today we missed it by a few minutes yesterday before it closed at 1pm, but it was closed for the whole day today I suppose to be expected on a Monday its quite common in France.

Returned to the van 3hrs later for lunch before setting off  west further into the golfe, St Gildas Rhuys but it wasn’t what we had expected. Before deciding that we didn’t have time to venture as far as port navalo.

Molly had been stood for 3 days without moving it plenty of power in battery I washed and dried hair charged phone up and computer plenty of power left no problem. Thanks we are sure to the photovoltaic panels and plenty of intense sunshine.

Headed back by Surzur the village that Jacques lives in just to have a look. From here headed north and then west to Vannes. Then beyond L’orient from the dept Morbihan into the dept Finnistere. At this point you cross the river at la laita where there was a car park positioned with a commanding view over this beautiful area with the GR34 passing through. It was in fact an espace naturel protégé Rives boisees de la laita .There was also a war memorial aux combattant du front de la laita 1944-45

For dinner we had bought crevettes (large prawns) and a bretone fish soup with organic bread and organic oxford gold beer kindly given to us by simon stebbings.

20.3.12

Despite frost overnight we were warm and cosy in our sleeping bags.  Another beautiful sunny morning awaited us as we enjoyed French bio eggs and mushrooms at a picnic table close by to the camper overlooking the river laita with crested tit calling in the trees above us.

To take advantage of the beautiful weather  and the GR34 north  being right on our doorstep we took a walk to the Abbaye St Maurice and at the Abbaye there is a creperie with a balcony overlooking the river, a fantastic view with an outside terrace and an inside bit unfortunately it was shut. Its called the Creperie St Maurice 0298715067 open all year 12-2 and 19- 2100hrs.

On the way there in the woods walking through old woodland there was a kingfisher spotted by Sharon and it took the time to hover in front of us clearly looking down for fish, something we have never seen a European kingfisher do before. Also a brown rat graced our presence just by the Creperie. Lovely views of red squirrel, and good views of grey wagtail, and nuthatches. The woodpeckers were drumming as they marked their new territories for 2012.

A male sparrow hawk was disturbed by us and flew out from the undergrowth possibly stalking a wren whose alarm call we could hear.

Reluctant to leave this area and the lovely sunshine, not sure of what the weather may bring back north we left after having light lunch on a picnic bench at the car park. A coffee too as we didn’t get one at the creperie which said would be open at 12pm but wasn’t despite stating it was open toute l’annee.

On route we stopped at a Super U (at Plogonnec) again! However, we do like their good selection of organic produce which is quite a lot cheaper than home. Organic wine is in good supply too and at a reasonable price.

Here too they have a chemical toilet disposal point, water, washing machines x 2 an 15kg and a 8kg, 8euros and 4 euros respectively. In addition an 18kg tunble drier available 24/7.

David had consulted the Lonely Planet for places to eat and found a wonderful place to eat at Port du Morgat at Saveurs Maree Tel 02 98 2623 18. Fantastic meal, excellent service, and a good atmosphere.

Later, in the dark we headed towards Cap De Chevre with the intention of walking a section of the GR34 coastal path tomorrow.

And our fingers are crossed for sunshine to enable us to appreciate this beautiful area.

Once again we found a large empty car park by the marine monitoring station at the end of the cape, which suited our needs perfectly.

21.3.12

Well today wasn’t quite as we expected it was rather cloudy and light rain. However we made use of the time by putting the water heater on and having a shower and washing our hair  as we did not need to worry about water, having filled up with water for 2 euros for 10 minutes (and washed the van) at Super U yesterday.

By the time we had had breakfast and completed the above the sun had come out and we were keen to get out and about. Because the meal was so good last night we  decided to return for lunch to Saveurs Maree but we were mindful of the fact that it was only open between 12pm and 2pm so had to get a move on.

We completed 6.5 kms in wonderful sunshine and were able to appreciate the magnificent coastline. We thoroughly enjoyed our walk and felt we had done some exercise to justify a meal out.

We had crevettes with mayonnaise followed by scallops in a cream and garlic sauce (cassoulet de noix de St Jaque) with rice. Green salad that came with a poached egg on top. washed down with a glass of red wine. Finished off with crème caramel and lavazza coffee. 56 euros in total 12 euros more than last night- but we did choose the set menu last night.

St Malo is approx 3 ¼ hours from here and our ferry is at 10-30am tomorrow so we must make our way slowly and hope to find a good overnight stop.

Found a Hyper U on route and managed to exchange the camping gas cylinder we obtained in Greece (a bit difficult but David as usual got a good result) and stock up with organic wine and a few other favourite bio products.

22.3.12

David the tour guide came up trumps for our last night making sure that we were near the port of St Malo so that we would not have far to travel on the morning of our return home. He located a board at a chemical service area on the outskirts of St Malo town showing the allowed overnight free areas for campers in St Malo. We found one right outside the walls of the medieval town.

 Arriving late and eating late we took advantage of the opportunity to see over the old town of St Malo and took a wander around its streets and along the ramparts before returning to the van after midnight.

We arose at 8am after a safe and good nights sleep and prepared for our return journey on Brittany ferries home approx 9hrs.

Prepared sandwiches and soup and took a little cream on board to have with our purchased coffees throughout the day.

Ferry was quiet, and it was a very pleasant sail home.

We are calling on Bron and Phil and family on our way back and will eat with them. Also deliver the wine for Phil purchased on Brittany Ferries.

We have had a great trip a really good time to travel as it is so quiet everywhere and a large number of eateries and attractions are open and available.